Hidden Corners of Spain: Michael Coy takes you on a tour of Competa in the Malaga region of the Axarquia

NARROW winding streets, whitewashed houses … Competa is everyone’s idea of what an Andalucian village should be. It’s positioned halfway between Velez-Malaga and Nerja, and lies about 12 miles inland and 25 miles from Malaga city.

This mountainous district is known as ‘Axarquia’.

Like the towns of Ronda and Cuenca, Competa’s precipitous landscape has imposed on it the need to build houses which seem about to topple into the gorge which they abut. And as with those towns, they are known as the ‘hanging houses’.

Competa has a unique wine-making tradition. The grapes are sun-dried, and the local wine has a special, ‘raisiny’ tang.

The wine festival (La Noche del Vino) falls in mid-August, to coincide with the religious feast of The Assumption – to which the village is especially devoted.

It’s a full-blown feria, with flamenco and pop music, and a giant paella cooked in the open air. And, of course, plenty of wine!

The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption is the must-see monument of Competa. Its height and size enable it to dominate the town. The church was built by order of the Catholic Monarchs in the 16th century and is located in the Plaza de Almijara.

This authentic ‘Cathedral of the Axarquia’ houses a fresco of the Virgin of the Assumption, the work of painter Francisco Hernandez.

On the exterior façade, you will find the interesting Paseo de las Tradiciones (Walk of Traditions). It is a series of ceramic murals depicting the local life and customs of Competa.

In the Plaza Almijara, next to the church, there is a statue of a couple in homage to the fandangos of Competa (a local species of flamenco song).

Folk customs are important here.

The Museum of Popular Arts and Customs was created in response to the demand of the residents of the town of Competa and its many visitors.

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It is a permanent tribute to the rural and peasant family, and the town’s customs and traditions, which are carefully recreated in order to preserve and disseminate them.

The cultural centre occupies the entire two floors of the former Civil Guard Barracks (from the 19th century), a magnificent and sober building in a distinctive architectural style.

Through the acquisition of the necessary equipment, the execution of minor renovations, and above all thanks to the contributions and donations of the residents of Competa, this museum houses ancient utensils used in agricultural activities (farming, treading, walking, etc.) and other economic activities (shops, slaughtering, wood-fired ovens, carpentry, blacksmithing, etc.), traditional costumes, and all the cultural, artistic, and traditional manifestations that make up the region’s cultural heritage.

You will also want to check out the mirador.

A mirador is a viewing-gallery, and Competa has a beauty.

This spectacular and original vantage point, inspired by the style of the Catalan architect Antonio Gaudi, is located at the entrance to Competa, up the A-7207 highway from the town of Torrox.

You can enjoy unique views of the town, La Maroma (the highest mountain peak in the province of Malaga), and the Tejeda, Alhama, and Almijara Mountains Natural Park.

Being small and off the beaten track, Competa doesn’t go in for big, urban-style hotels, but we like La Posada del Cani. A posada is a traditional inn, combining hotel features with cosy, family hospitality.

And so it is with Cani. It’s a guesthouse, but it offers a restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine and free Wi-Fi. Located in the calle Eusebio García, it’s right in the heart of the village.

The guesthouse’s rooms have a private bathroom with free toiletries, a flat-screen TV, and air conditioning. Some rooms have a seating area. Bed linen and towels are provided in each room.

You can even play darts at La Posada del Cani!

A room, shared by two persons, costs €60 (May 2025 prices) but direct access by car is not easy.

The Cortijo Paco is a lovely little restaurant on the quiet, narrow Avenida de Canillas. It specialises in grilled meats.

Closed on Mondays, it is open every other evening from 6:30 to 10:30 (Cortijo Paco doesn’t do lunches, other than on Sundays).

We strongly recommend the “Grilled Honey-Basted Lamb”. It’s delicious, and it costs only €14! Needless to say, the wine list offers some outstanding local products!